9.01.2008

What do you get when you don't finish your muslins?

You get a pair of really, REALLY, tight pants.

And you get thankful for the fact that the adrenaline of sewing these pants must have been so great as to raise your metabolism so that you now actually fit into said really, REALLY tight pants.

The tight pants in question are from Burda World of Fashion, 06/2007.

Pattern: BWOF 06-2007-104, Size 38/40.

burdamodelpic

burdatechdrawing

Fabric: Black 98% Wool/ 2% Elastene from Fabric Mart and Black High Power Mesh Fabric from Lucy's Fabrics and a bit of Black Silk Charmeuse from Fabric Mart for detailing.

Pattern Alterations: I couldn't find the back line drawing of this pattern but the original pattern is drafted with the back waistband being thicker than the front. I wanted a uniform waistband so I redrafted the band to my liking. Originally I had cut a 38 at the waist grading to a 40 at the hips and thighs. The muslin seemed to reflect that this was a good fit but when I added the underlining I had to make my seam allowances a lot larger than the allotted 1/4" and so I think the legs ended up a size 38 which accounts for why the pants are so much tighter on me than on the model.

Techniques: This was my first pair of pants, dare I say even my first pair of bottoms, which was a great learning experience.

For reference....

Back Welt pocket: I used this and this tutorial found at Fashion Incubator. They are awesome! Last time I made welt pockets they took forever and they turned out to be a mess but using these tutorials made the whole experience completely harmless.

backpockdetail

Underlining: Greatly aided by this explanation on Pattern Review.

insidedet2

Fly Front Zipper: I used a combination of Burda's instructions, Sigrid's explanation and Summerset's explanation. I didn't end up with the perfect fly front in terms of cleanliness on the inside but it does lie flat and I think it looks good from the outside which is good enough for me for my first try.

insidedet1


Details: Not exactly a technique, but I used silk charmeuse to cover the buttons on the back pockets and as one layer of the front pockets to add "interestingness" to the garment. I also used it to bind the pockets to gussy up the insides. Lastly, I added some topstitching and did a lot of edgestitching.

pocketdetail


frontview
A view from the front.


sideview
A view from the side.

And you know what? I love these pants. Ah, I think they are so great albeit it a bit hot under the wool and the lining. Looking at them in pictures I'm starting to think maybe they aren't so tight it's just that the lining sticks to my leg and makes me feel like the pants are positively glued to me. Now, I'm going to find me a cape to sew!!!



15 comments:

AllisonC said...

They look fantastic and you did an awesome job on the welt pocket, thanks for posting the links to the tutorial.

madhatter said...

I think the pants look great on you - you can definitely wear them and they don't look too tight or something.
I pretty much think they didn't feed the model for months - and the pants don't fit her, just look at the crotch area. ugh.
yours are perfect! ^-^

Lori said...

I think your pants look great, the welt pocket is terrific.

cidell said...

Oh, they look awesome on you! I love what you did with the silk. I'll also have to check out the bit on underlining. I'm a bit of an underlining freak these days. Excellent first pants!!

The Slapdash Sewist said...

Those look great! I am ashamed to say that I *still* haven't made a successful pair of pants. I should really try.

ambika said...

They look awesome on you, not tight at all!

Nancy said...

wow. those are just BEAUTIFUL! you are so sewing couture- they don't look tight at all, they look perfect and classic.

Summerset said...

They look better on you than on the model! They are meant to be trousers with a slim leg, and that's exactly what you've got. I think they're very classy look and could be worn many different tops for different looks.

paco peralta said...

beautiful, really. look better in you than photo from the magazine. is very interesting detail of the pocket. thanks for show. greetings, Paco

soknitpicky said...

Your detailing is so fabulous!

Aïda said...

Good job! Those pants don't look tight on you. It is exactly the kind of clothes I’m looking for: things you can dress on quickly in the morning and wear it with a sober top and just look terrific! The way you wear it, is perfect.

Sorry for my english...

toy said...

i love this pants on you, it looks great

Tany said...

The pants look great!! They are stylish and modern!

Beth said...

The pants are awesome and I'm VERY impressed with the welt pocket. Congrats!

Christina said...

That is one nice pair of pants! The bias binding is just fab.